Contrary to belief, SPF is not just for Summer, it is needed all year round, especially for Black and Asian women. Abi Cleeve, MD of Ultrasun UK explains why.
Why do Black and Asian women need SPF?
Everyone needs to protect from UV rays. Although skin cancer is not as common in those with black and brown skin, the mortality rate is higher. Due to a lack of awareness of the risks, it is often diagnosed at a later stage making it harder to treat. Melanin, the pigment that gives skin and eyes their colour, offers some protection from UV rays. Fairer skin tones have a natural SPF of around three.
Darker skin tones, with more melanin, can filter twice as much UV radiation and has a natural SPF of around 13. However, sun damage still occurs, especially for skin that is not used to the sun. On Black and brown skin tones, areas of the body with less pigment such as the palms and soles of the feet are particularly susceptible.
People think SPF is just for Summer - is that true?
No, absolutely false. Simply put - UVA rays. UVA rays are a year round skin damager, penetrating cloud and glass and impacting cumulatively beneath the skin’s surface. Think UV “A” for ageing. Year round UVA protection is particularly important for those looking to prevent and control existing pigmentation.
Sun protection should be very much part of a daily skincare routine and anyone serious about their skincare will know that UVA & UVB protection is a daily core component. No serum or moisturisers can reverse UV damage. A good UV protection product now multi-tasks, delivering a lightweight under make up formula that often rivals and replaces BB and CC creams, by also giving enhanced anti-ageing, anti-pollution, skin radiance and smoothing benefits, alongside the crucial high SPF and UVA filter as standard.
A number of moisturisers and make up brands contain a sunscreen within them with a SPF of 15. However, these often tend not to be water-resistant and, by the very nature of their intended use, are applied a lot more thinly and therefore are often not providing the same level of protection as ‘pure’ sunscreens and also do not offer any UVA protection.
How does SPF protect us?
Know your skin and select the right protection level for you based on your own sun account. Ultrasun’s patented lamellar technology locks the UV filters into the skin so that they work harder and for longer. The Lamellar structures keep powerful active ingredients suspended in layers. They bind perfectly to the stratum corneum because they are very similar to the natural membrane lipids, so they’re gradually released over time giving you long-lasting protection.
What should we look for in a good SPF?
Start with protection, and then consider a product that multi-tasks in its formula with added skincare actives. Above all, opt for a product that provides a high level of both UVA (year round rays that penetrate the skin’s surface causing long term damage) and UVB (measured by the SPF number) protection. The level of UVA protection can be confusing to identify, the simplest way is to look for the exact % filter strength of the UVA filters, as the EU standard requirement is just 33%.
Then, look for ingredients that further enhance the skin benefits of a broad spectrum (UVA and UVB) sun protection product, targeting skin type specific issues:
Ectoin: Ultrasun’s face products’ hero ingredient present in the maximum % recommended, a revolutionary and rare natural enzyme that helps prevent UVA induced premature photo ageing. It is known for its anti-inflammatory and hydrating benefits as well as its contribution in limiting the impact of HEV (blue light).
GSP-T: Delivers enhanced UVA protection with grape seed extract. GSP-T is a complex that effectively neutralises skin damaging free radical activity stimulated by exposure to the sun. The maximum % recommended of this known anti-oxidant is present in Ultrasun’s face specific range
Hexylresorcinol: Helps fade the appearance of age spots and evens out the skin tone.
Superoxide Dismustase: Boosts the body’s antioxidant defense by reducing cellular damage. Various researchers have identified this enzyme as playing a critical role in reducing oxidative damage and inflammation.
How do we avoid the dreaded white cast?
SPF formulas have evolved and there are formulas that absorb easily and are formulated to ensure they work on all skin types. We have sun protection products for all skin types that deliver high, broad spectrum protection, leaving none of the chalky residue those with darker skin tones are understandably keen to avoid.
Our lamellar formula ensures the product absorbs just below the skin’s surface to erase the possibility of the dreaded white cast. Particularly popular with our Black and brown customers are products in our Sports Range, clear gels and sprays, our Face Anti-pigmentation SPF50+ Tinted formula which gives a peachy glow as opposed to colour and our original Face SPF30 which sits well under make up and doesn’t give flash back in photos (MUAs are fans of this).
