Wigs and weaves have undergone a transformation in recent years. Back in the day, a good human hair wig was inaccessible (unless you had a lot of money to spend), and don’t even get me started on human hair weaves.

Thankfully, times have changed and now whenever we see a Black woman with a beautifully laid wig or a weave that seamlessly blends with her own natural hair, all we want to know is where she got her hair from. The Black girl’s guide to buying human hair will break down everything you need to know about human hair before you part with your hard earned money as well as dealing with misconceptions.

What to look for

One of the most important things to consider is what you should be looking for when you are buying human hair. “The key thing is origin,” says Adela, founder of Dellah’s Hair. “The type of processing that has been done; texture, smell, durability, and the option to colour the hair and its ability to withstand heat.’’ Beauty blogger and founder of By Jess D, Jessica Debrah, who has been wearing weaves for years, adds, “Look out for tangling and shedding. Also, the hair should be thick and not thin.’’

This sounds incredibly straightforward but the reality is that the search for human hair can have its downsides. Hair journalist, Akesha Reid explains, “There is no governance with hair extensions so brands can follow their own rating system on what they deem as premium. So do your research and make sure you trust the brands you're buying from.’’

The price

Human hair can be very expensive, so paying for anything less than the finest quality just isn’t an option. Jessica adds, “Human hair is more expensive than synthetic hair, but in the long run it is more cost effective.” It has a lifespan of 12 to 24 months, so nobody wants to be throwing their human hair away after six months of usage. Influencer, Tunrayo Oyewole advises, “Buy your human hair from a credible brand that is transparent about how they source their hair.’’

Even with total transparency, how can we separate the best from the rest? Hairdresser and founder of salon, Her Definition, Heather Dappah says ‘’High quality human hair will have a natural shine even after washing. It will also be thick, consist of minimal to no shedding and it can withstand being straightened with titanium plate straighteners.’’ Adela adds, ‘’The best quality human hair are the ones collected directly from their donors and they look healthy so when you run your fingers through them, there is little to no friction at all.’’

Shopping online

If you are shopping for your human hair online, there’s no denying that it can be hard to tell which hair is worth investing in due to the fact that you cannot touch and feel it. Akesha has some tips, ‘’Look for the terms 'cuticle-aligned' or 'remy' for hair that doesn't tangle as easily. Virgin hair hasn't been previously chemically-treated or coloured so it tends to be less dry. It’s also important to like the brand you are buying from, so do your research on where they get their hair from.’’

As Akesha stated before, research is essential. There are a lot of sellers online who are selling poor quality hair, so take your time with the search. Ask people you know where they get their hair from. Tunrayo adds, ‘’Don’t always go for the lower price, because there’s a possibility that the hair may not be of good quality."

The Brazilian hair myth

Once Brazilian hair became popular, it was only a matter of time before Korean, Cambodian and Indian hair were introduced to the industry. Hair enthusiasts were left wondering if one was better than the other. At BBT, we have also wondered if there’s any truth to the myth surrounding human hair from different nations. Adela sums it up, ‘’ All I know is that Brazilians don’t donate their hair.’’

Heather goes on to add some clarity, ‘’Most hair is sourced from the continent of Asia. Manufacturers have a history of using different names to describe the same hair based on demand. It’s all marketing. When buying hair, the most important thing you should pay attention to is that it’s Virgin Hair, High Grade and Double Drawn if possible.’’

Lets not forget wigs

Let’s talk about laid wigs, which is the key to flawless hair. In order to achieve the smooth and invisible look that wig lovers adore, you will need to buy a lace frontal. Akesha explains, ‘’A lace frontal is the closure that normally runs from the front of the crown to the edges of a wig that makes it look more realistic. This is because you can play with your parting and blend the front of the wig seamlessly with your skin.’’

Adela says, ‘’Frontals are needed mostly for people with hair loss but many people use it anyway, as it allows for ease of hair styling.’’ If you decide to get a lace frontal, go to a hairstylist that has extensive experience in this area. Don’t simply take their word for it: ask for videos, pictures, look out for any client testimonials. If your frontal is poorly handled, it will affect the overall look of your wig. The highest standard of professionalism and the best service should be at the forefront of any decisions you make in relation to your hair.

The hair industry is booming, so if you want to buy human hair for a weave or wig that you want to stand the test of time, do explore a variety of options before you make a final decision.

Look out for our guide to buying synthetic hair.